Andy Dunn savours life by the Moyne River

And if all goes to plan, the magic harbour-side location may well return to its former glory.

Andy Dunn’s passion for food and drink (mostly beer) has seen his recent seachange blossom into the opportunity of a lifetime: a chance to transform one of Victoria’s most iconic and beautiful locations. 

A career in beer and food has seen Andy gallivant from Vancouver to Brunswick, but it’s no surprise the world’s most liveable community has claimed another victim.

Unable to resist the charm and chilled existence Port Fairy offers, Andy jumped firstly at the chance to take over the Belfast Bakery. It was a simple choice with obvious benefits.

“I just wanted to live by the sea and run a little shop and learn how to surf,” he said.

It was this dream that led to the birth of The Wharf Commons, Port Fairy’s new riverside burger and seafood shop.

Having spent summers in Port Fairy as a youngster gorging on fish and chips from the wharf, it’s been sad for Andy to see the King George Square building dwindle into nothingness. 

“It would have been a tragedy to have it empty for summer,” he said.

So alongside now head chef Ricky Baulch, Andy laid out the groundwork for a bold but exciting venture — a simple, fresh gourmet burger and seafood joint.

“We went for a simple menu with quality ingredients that we could make fast, fresh and affordably,” Andy said.

“Port Fairy has an enviable selection of cafés and punches well above its weight in top-end dining, but the thing that gave me a lot of confidence was seeing Coffin Sally (the pizza business) and how successful they’ve been over the past two years. 

“They were the only ones offering an alternative eating experience in town.

“The benefits of having a talented chef like Ricky designing a menu and a kitchen means you get great food that has those special touches but can be done fast and of consistent high quality. One of the most rewarding things from my perspective has been assembling a bunch of lads with no formal kitchen experience and watching them grow into a hard-working and engaged team capable of producing high-volume, high-quality food consistently.”

Sandwiched between the relief of a post-summer lull and this weekend’s Folk Festival onslaught, the team has had a chance to reflect on what has transpired, as well as look forward to some big plans.

With a possible revamp and the chance of a complete redevelopment on the horizon, a lot rides on government funding and whether proposals for a multi-million-dollar double-storey makeover are accepted.

The port board has only recently lodged an application for $2 million of funding to boost its plans to develop the site, which the guys will watch unfold with interest. For now though, The Wharf Commons will continue to prosper, and take advantage of a building with a dwindling life expectancy, but no less character.

“I love this building. It’s got great bones,” Andy said.