Whether you're watching a big race, or driving a racing sim or game, you want a good viewing experience.
In almost all cases you'll be looking at some form of LCD (nowadays backlit by LED which is why most TVs and monitors are now called LED), and the tech is anything but new. Like the invention of the car itself, it has simply been tweaked over time.
For a home TV we tend to care about screen size, resolution and picture quality, as well as some of the other features it may have (like picture-in-picture or image upscaling). You should also care about power consumption, and the bigger it is, the more it will need.
If you're putting a TV in a camper or caravan, you basically want a little TARDIS. You need it to be slim, and light, and low on power consumption (plus able to run directly from a decent 12V battery) on the outside, but packed with features and as big as possible (within those constraints) on the inside.
Built-in DVD players were nice before smart TVs (possibly using your phone as a Wi-Fi hotspot if your signal and data plan are both up to it), but Android set-top boxes are cheap, small and use minimal power (I have a set-top that wants 5V and 2A so - using a cord meant for something else - it can be powered by a suitable USB source).
Slim and light also makes it easier to use a display with a sim rig because you want to place it right in front of you, whether you have one big screen or the typical alternative to VR, triple screens.
In sim racing, we are also more interested in performance. One measurement is hertz, so a 144Hz monitor will be capable of showing up to 144 frames per second (if the PC is good enough to produce them).
Another measure (that's often very hard to find unless a media outlet who reviews and tests them for a living has produced the real-world data, and the same model happens to be available in Australia) is latency. This is different to pixel response time. Latency is the time from signal input to picture output, whereas the grey-to-grey response time for the panel being used, as quoted by the manufacturer, is kind-of meaningless.
Doing some maths, we find that at 60Hz the time from one frame to the next is 16.66667ms (milliseconds). At 120Hz it's half that, so it's 8.33333ms.
A 60Hz TV is fine for casual gaming, as long as the latency is low (either with a gaming setting, or no picture quality post-processing delaying the picture to start with).
Stepping up to proper monitors though, there are still multiple variations on the LED design, each with their own pros and cons. Just to cover them briefly, the most common are TN (twisted nematic), VA (vertical alignment) and IPS (in-plane switching).
Some competitive gamers still swear by the earlier TN for very low latency and high frame rates. The cost is generally lower too (or it was when they were common in stores), however these suffer from some (or lots of) colour wash-out when not viewed directly and have less colour accuracy anyway, but they also don't get ghosting or other issues.
The common low- to mid-budget option now is the VA panel. They look nice enough, and at the higher end some will have good brightness and HDR to look nicer. Lower-cost options are often made to run at 75Hz, while others are able to achieve up to maybe 144Hz before ghosting and inverse ghosting starts to become an issue (so don't expect to push them any higher even if the specs say they can, you're likely better off limiting the frame rate and applying other settings in the graphics control panel to minimise system latency from the PC).
As a side note, quantum dot is a variation on VA, with an extra layer which helps address the ghosting at high speeds, and improves the picture quality of TVs.
IPS meanwhile is still the preferred choice for professional uses because it produces the most accurate colours (and it has other good features like viewing angles, no ghosting and so on). They're more expensive though.
After all that, you have the choice of flat or curved, and as alternatives to VR, running a 32:9 ultrawide (basically two 16:9 monitors in one panel) or triple screens (assuming the sim or game you want to use can be made to support them) if you don't mind the bezels.