WHY HERE Once discounted by holidaymakers making a beeline for New Zealand's dramatic landscapes beyond, Auckland is turning its reputation as an uninteresting commercial centre on its head. Events such as the America's and Rugby World Cups have done wonders for this multicultural city, home to the world's largest Polynesian population, with the emergence of funky new dining and retail precincts cropping up in repurposed heritage buildings along the waterfront. Charmingly, it retains the feel of a big country town, although its choking traffic and high property prices mean Auckland is loathed by Kiwis living elsewhere. With its strong Maori and Pacific Island culture, rich maritime history and hip, creative vibe, New Zealand's largest city beats to its own drum.
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HOW LONG You'll need three to four days to get the most out of the City of Sails: two nights in Auckland, and one or two nights on Waiheke Island, where you can picnic at secluded inlets such as Man O' War Bay and sample wine at the chic Frenchman's Hill Estate (frenchmanshillestate.co.nz).
DON'T MISS The urban neighbourhood of Ponsonby, with its luminaries, wannabes and bright young things, is Auckland's answer to Melbourne's Chapel Street. Lined with cafes, bars and restaurants spilling out onto the pavement, Ponsonby Road is Auckland's superlative retail strip. Book a table at Sidart (sidart.co.nz), where Sid Sahrawat's innovative menu provokes the senses; partake of Champagne aperitifs at Mea Culpa (meaculpa.com); and try the revolutionary pork buns at the Blue Breeze Inn (thebluebreezeinn.co.nz).
In the CBD, bypass touristy Queen Street for the newly regenerated Britomart (britomart.co.nz) precinct, previously Auckland's shabby historic downtown area, but now a chic enclave of fashion, food and wine. Here you'll find international brands including Brit heavyweight Ted Baker and local fashion legends Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester. Enjoy a Mediterranean-inspired lunch at Ortolana (ortolana.co.nz), followed by a stroll with artisan ice-cream in hand from The Store (the luscious salted caramel is incredible; hipgroup.co.nz/the-store). Return in the evening for delicate shochu cocktails at the uber-cool Fukuko bar (fukuko.co.nz), followed by heavenly sake and sashimi at nearby Ebisu (ebisu.co.nz).
Auckland Museum (aucklandmuseum.com) houses the most complete collection of Maori and Pacific Islander art in the southern hemisphere, while the Maritime Museum (maritimemuseum.co.nz) gives a terrific insight into the country's seafaring past. Entry is $23 to Auckland Museum; $16 to the Maritime Museum, $11 extra for the harbour cruise.
If you want to get out of the city, set sail for Waiheke Island, Aucklanders' playground of choice. Cruise the beaches by moped or electric bike, the wind in your hair; explore inlets with bobbing boats, boutique wineries and excellent vineyard restaurants, including Mud Brick (mudbrick.co.nz) and Cable Bay (cablebay.co.nz).
WHERE TO STAY Hotel de Brett (hoteldebrett.com) is a chic boutique hotel in the heart of Auckland's CBD, priced from $308 per night. If money is no object, the new superlative St Mary's Residence (stmarysresidence.co.nz), priced from $3080 per night, includes private driver, concierge service, private chef's breakfast, and more. The Owners Retreat, Mudbrick Vineyard (mudbrick.co.nz) is set at the eastern end of Waiheke Island on a private beach called Circular Bay. The gorgeous beachfront cottage sleeps six and is priced from $NZ400 $375 per night.
See newzealand.com; aucklandnz.com.
The writer was a guest of Tourism New Zealand and Air New Zealand.
