There is also a very interesting trait here of always telling the truth and never offering lip service, something I think Aussies are a little guilty of. We were taken out a lot to eat in Brunei and during dinner our host would critique absolutely everything to the waiter.

I asked if this was just a personal trait but it isn’t, everyone does it and once what is said is said, it is over and done with. I think this approach - especially when it comes to food - stems from the fact the average person in Brunei, and throughout most of Asia, has a much deeper and broader knowledge of food than the average Australian.

We were also on the receiving end of this mentality which took a little getting used to.

This understanding the Malay people have of food is essential because there is so much choice and the food here is so amazing. This creates a problem though in choosing what to eat; I think that is why the Malay people eat 5 times a day.

Here's a sample of the wide range on offer:

Char kway teow (noodles), Nasi Ayam (chicken rice), Satay Daging (Mutton Satay), Fried Chicken in spicy sauce, Chicken Noodle Soup, Hoiken egg noodles, Fish Dumplings, Laksa, Beef Curry, Chicken Curry, more satay, more roti, more char kway teow, chilli prawns, bamboo clams, chinese vegetables, more roti, more laksa, chicken cooked in bamboo, sambal prawns, tapioca leaves with chicken liver in coconut milk, bakso (Indonesian soup), fried green chillis with chicken kidneys, deep fried snake beans with garlic and oyster sauce, fish maw (swim bladder) and sea cucumber hot pot, fried tofu, coral trout salad, crispy skin pork hock, Fried Mee (noodles), more char kway teow, watercress in belechan (shrimp paste), Hainin chicken rice, sour fish soup, pork and prawn in bean curd, fried prawn wonton, chickens feet, pork rib in black vinegar, carrot cake, steamed pork dumplings, pau (steamed pork buns), steamed pork rib, rolled noodles with pork, chicken wings, rice cakes, fried pork chop and steamed pork – and we tried it all in just four days!

One interesting exception to the quality of food is the quality of the meat. Coming from Australia, where the beef is amazing, the meat here just doesn’t compare.

All the meat in Brunei must not only be Halal, the Halal slaughter must also be witnessed by an official from the Brunei government. Because of this the quality of the meat suffers as the cost of having to send someone to witness the slaughter in a country like Australia is massive and therefore the only option is live import.

The hot weather and lack of space means the animals have to be slaughtered stressed and slightly malnourished almost immediately after arriving.

An interesting aside, Halal is about respecting the animal in many different ways including when they are alive and the people here have huge concerns about the conditions.

That is Brunei. I could go on forever because it is an amazing place and the friends we have here are wonderful.

We are now in Kota Kinabalu at the most amazingly luxurious resort – The Pacific Sutera. You can get yourself a room in a five star resort with a bar in the swimming pool, a 27 hole golf course looking out over the south china sea for about AUD$100. Fly Air Asia and you can get here for about 500 bucks! It is surreal because it is almost empty which is good because it frees up the piano in the lobby for late night drunken jazz and the swimming pool is deserted.

The town centre of KK, a 10 ringgit taxi ride away is buzzing with people and food everywhere.

The markets are overflowing with the freshest seafood and vegetables. Health regulations seem to be non-existent as the chicken sits uncovered unchilled in the 30 degree heat.

Bright colours and smoke billow from rows and rows of hawkers selling chicken wings, BBQ fish and satay sticks. We weren’t quite sure what the hawker lady was saying but it sounded a lot like chicken arse. Then we realised she was saying chicken arse. Parson's nose satay skewers.

KK is famous for its seafood and the four basketball court-sized seafood market with rows and rows of fish tanks filled with every imaginable creature. Ugly stagnant staring stonefish, mantis shrimp in coke bottles to stop them killing each other, scallops flapping about and translucent prawns dancing in the water.

Behind the tanks are the restaurants that transform the seafood into wonderful dishes. The tables, all for at least 12 people, are filled with mainly Chinese tourist sharing a lazy Susan of the most amazing dishes.

We worked our guts out in the Millennium restaurant to produce and teach the kitchen French, Spanish and Italian banquets. The kitchen staff were wonderful, funny and all spoke very little English. Most of the teaching was done by playing charades, but we’ve got a few kitchen words down pat now.

We were always stopped for breakfast, lunch and dinner no matter what. We were more than looked after by these gentle polite hardworking people. Rachel says the first couple of days were quite daunting in a new country and new kitchen.

But I was at home within minutes. I felt famous and confident, greeting the staff as old friends. It is such a wonderful experience coming to Millenium we just wish it was longer... although now the hard work is over its all pork and beer from now on.

Tips

Always do a poo before you go out so you don’t get caught having to take a crap in either a stinky little squat toilet where you have to wipe with your hand (never give someone food with your left hand) or a western toilet with dirty foot prints on the seat. Fair enough squatting prevents haemorrhoids and it seems to just come out a little easier but there is no reason why people can’t wipe the seat afterwards.

And learn to love Kenny G, Mariah Carey and instrumental piano Robbie Williams covers.

Recipe

T he Sultan's Sling

60ml Gin

60ml Coca-Cola

Young coconut juice

Pour gin and coke over ice in a tall glass or hollowed coconut. Top with fresh young coconut juice. Garnish with an umbrella.