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Winter in Florence

I MUST say, it has been very mild this winter so far in Florence. This time last year there was a foot of snow on the ground.

You can actually walk around Florence with an overcoat open. During the day the sun shines brightly, so with bare trees and bright sun on the historic buildings it is indeed a magic sight.

Near enough every square/Piazza has had variations of Christmas fairs with gifts and food available in the wonderful way Italians do things.

The food markets have also been a wonderful sight with decorated stalls and superb fruit and small goods to die for.

There have also been a lot of charity fairs, one run by The American International Womens Group was held in what were once Royal stables. At this fair they sell incredible quality secondhand goods such as crockery, glasses, vases, books and clothes.

I was lucky to buy a summer sports coat with the label and price still on it of 600 Euros. I managed to buy this magnificent piece of clothing for 5 Euros and it fitted me perfectly!

I also bought some cooking books for a Euro a book. One of the most prominent Australians in Florence, Suzanne, emptied rubbish tins all day, a great inspiration for the rest of the workers.

The Red Cross also ran a special fair, this was in a palace on the river Arno, Palazzo Corsini. This was a beautiful venue as it even had a magnificent grotto inside it.

This fair was selling all new designer clothing and upmarket gifts, but at very reasonable prices.

Every small district in the historic town of Florence designs its own Christmas decorations. There is a blaze of light and beautiful decorations throughout the town, in many of the broad streets and narrow alleyways.

Florence of course has been a Roman Catholic city with great cathedrals and churches all decorated and opened up to the public for Christmas services, however sprinkled amongst them are some protestant churches including two Russian orthodox, an Italian Methodist Church, also an English Methodist Church where I know the female pastor and a German Lutheran Church.

The church where I sing in the choir is called St. Marks English Church. It is in fact a high Church of England. There is also an American Church that is Anglican. The church is very active with an American Pastore and it is interesting to hear the priest's wife speak with a Southern American Drawl.

Bells, Bells, Florence is awash with the sound of bells. They start at eight in the morning and ring the masses for 7, 8 and 9am. They ring again at midday and then they start again for 5.30 and 6pm mass.

Just after Christmas I visited some Australian nuns from Kew in Melbourne who run a convent here. These six Australian nuns were amazing women and I was very pleased to have a cup of tea with them and give them their Christmas gifts.

I went to a Function in December run by The Australians in Florence group. This consists of many Australians living in Florence for various reasons. Some for as long as 50 years.

I sat down next to a fellow who told me on Saturday he was going to holiday in Australia and he would be staying in a camping ground, on the beach in Warrnambool! It is a small world!

With the Australians in Florence group I am going to be running an Anzac Day service and celebrations. I would expect over 100 Australians to be coming to the celebrations. It would probably be pleasing to know that we are having Anzac biscuits and lamingtons for supper. More about this celebration next missive.

There are so many concerts here, you could be out nearly every night. A new opera house was opened just before Christmas, I have not been yet.

I cooked Christmas lunch for an English/Italian family and had Christmas dinner with a wonderful English woman who has been living here for 50 years. It was the full Monty Christmas dinner - turkey, puddings etc.

Prior to Christmas, I was invited to a graduation concert at the music conservatory for a trumpeter. It was a great concert. The young lady is a credit to Australia and to her hometown Sydney.

I would like to comment at this stage that 95 per cent of these venues that I have spoken about, one can walk to, which makes living in Florence so easy.

Late afternoon and evening Saturdays and Sundays the Florentines flock to the centre of town to shop and socialise. They are mostly all dressed to kill and it is so exciting walking with them.

The Italians dress their children beautifully. It is very common to see little boys with nicely made sports jackets with a nice pair of trousers and of course with ties, and the young ladies (children) are decked out in cute dresses and more often than not a lovely overcoat and hat and often they are carrying a little handbag.

Next week I am moving in to a new apartment. The reason for mentioning it is that it is in an historic palace on the red bus route.

It is the building that Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Robert Browning lived in when they were in Florence.

Fortunately my apartment is not right on the bus stop. My grandmother always said that the Barretts were related however tenuously. So I am living where a relative once lived.

It is also interesting that the English school Eton Cllege owns the first floor, which includes a museum and rooms for six boys to stay and a tutor.

One of my friends knows the historian so no doubt I will meet him and some of the boys.

It is interesting that Euros have pennies - 1 cents and 2 cents. The shopkeepers will give you 1 cent change and you finish up with a pocket full of coppers. I think our system is better.

Since finishing this report so much more has happened and I look forward to writing my next report very shortly.

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Postcards from Florence
Former south-west resident Victor Caulfield writes about his life in Florence.

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